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Dietterle started on his hobby in a small way, hoping only to supply his family with all types of raspberries. But he purchased a few new plants each spring until he had over one-fourth acre and too many berries for family consumption. He began selling them, found they had a ready market, and kept right on at about the same pace for eleven years.

When he decided to retire about four years ago, he went into raspberry raising on a little bigger scale and now has about one-half acre in production. It was then that the hobby really proved its value to Dietterle. "I came to realize," he remarks, "that everyone should have a hobby like this during his younger years—one that will keep him going and make his life fuller in later years."

AT THE time Dietterle first considered growing raspberries, he knew little more about their cultivation and care than the average person. But before he purchased any plants, he did some up-to-date reading on the subject in fruit and farm magazines, nursery catalogues, and in bulletins obtained from Penn State College's Agricultural Extension Service.

He began by raising only one type—the black raspberry. In Dietterle's opinion, they are the best bet for the average beginning hobbyist.

"The black raspberry produces heavier than the red and is not as sensitive to weather and soil conditions," he asserts. "Besides, these two types must be kept from 500 to 1,000 feet apart or disease control is difficult, which would require a lot of space, particularly for a beginner. Of course, we must not forget the purple berry. I wouldn't be without it—for frozen it is tops, but it's not popular enough yet to recommend anyone beginning with this type alone."

Dietterle talked with others who had raised raspberries, and from them and the written information, he learned about the most desirable varieties. "Of course," he comments with a quick sparkle in his dark brown eyes, "the biggest mistake a beginner could make would be to follow all the advice about varieties given in catalogues." Finally he settled on one hundred Cumberland. Some of these he purchased from a local grower and the others from a reputable house that charges about $12.50 for one hundred plants, which Dietterle says is just about right as far as price goes.

He admits to having made the same mistake that most beginning hobbyists will make. He has spent as much as $50 for a hundred plants, but after several years of practical experience, he found that the plants of these high-priced nurseries were not superior to those he bought at the good nurseries with less quick-profit ideas. In a poor season such excessive plant costs may get you discouraged before you start right and in a good season they cut too deeply into your profits.

The one year tips are the most practical plants. High prices often enter the picture with two-year transplants which nurserymen sometimes offer. However, the results do not justify laying out extra cash for them, in Dietterle's opinion.

ONCE THE hobbyist has his plants ordered, he should consider what site he prefers. Be certain that you have undisputed use or ownership of the piece of soil for at least seven years. It is far better to use a part of your garden than to take any chances on losing control of your ground. At first you need only a small piece of ground and as you increase your plantings, you can often locate a suitable spot if you do not already have it. The piece of ground selected should be elevated above the surrounding land on at least one side so that cold air may drain off to lower levels. Dietterle has found that this is a big help in avoiding damage from frost in spring and from extremely cold weather during the winter. On the other hand, a dense woods or fence-row along the lower side of a planting may seriously interfere with air drainage.

Although fairly level land is the best, Dietterle has had just as good success on that which has a gentle but not a steep slope. If you live in the country, perhaps you can select a piece of land with a hill or a forest at the upper side of your planting. The woods will protect the plants from winds and winter injury. However, the hobbyist must be careful never to get the plants close enough to wooded areas that they will be affected by the shade or the roots of the trees.

LAST SUMMER Dietterle had new emphasis placed on a lesson he had learned long ago about raspberries—that a high moisture-holding capacity in the soil is very important. The raspberry ripens when soil moisture is at its lowest point for the season and last summer it was extremely dry at this time. Despite this fact, Dietterle got good returns from those planted in soil with a high moisture content, but from those planted in a low moisture area the story was quite different. However, in normal seasons the latter were most productive.

The pest type of soil to select is either the extremely sandy or very heavy clay variety. Raspberries can be successfully grown on a wide range of soils, but a deep soil with good under-drainage will yield many extra dollars in profit.

Dietterle has also found it wise to consider what was previously planted on the plot of ground that you use for the berries. The piece you select should not have had potatoes, eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, or wild raspberry plants on the soil just previously, because a wilt disease which these plants often have and which raspberries readily get will live in the soil for four or five years.

"It's best to have the land plowed in the fall, but it can be done in the spring, especially if there's danger of washing," Dietterle says.

He also points out that it's fine if your plot of ground had heavy applications of manure or commercial fertilizer during previous seasons. And if he plows the field in the fall, he finds it wise to plow into the soil domestic ryegrass or mixed clovers. But, regardless of past fertilization, the raspberry hobbyist would do well to figure on twenty tons to the acre.

GENERALLY, spring planting is the best. If the spring happens to be too dry for the plants to get a start and the autumn proves suitable, it is all right to take a chance. But with few exceptions Dietterle sets his plants as early in the spring as possible.

"You soon find," he warns, "that nurseries send plants when they are ready. Even when I've bought them locally I've had trouble, for sometimes I no more than got them home and a long steady rain began. So you've just got to learn how to handle the plants from the time you receive them until they can be planted."

Naturally, if it is at all possible, the plants should be set immediately upon receiving them; but as Dietterle has pointed out, it cannot always be done that way. If you must hold the plants for more than a day, then dig a trench deep enough to accommodate the roots and lower part of the stems. This completed, the plants should be placed side by side, one layer deep along the trench and the soil placed over the roots. Raspberry growers call this "heeling in." Should the soil be dry, water should be sprinkled on in liberal amounts. If the roots are rather dry when they arrive, place them for an hour in a tub of water before planting them or "heeling them in."

"One thing that has made me stick to raspberries is that you don't have to replant every spring," says Dietterle. "I've had patches that have produced for ten years." While he likes this characteristic of raspberries, he also issues a warning concerning it. Since a raspberry patch remains in production so many years, you want to be very certain that you set out the plants right in the first place.

RASPBERRIES SHOULD be planted about three to four feet apart in rows eight to ten feet apart. If the hobbyist must use his home garden where space is limited and he must cultivate entirely by hand, then he may set them in rows slightly less than eight feet apart.

Under ordinary conditions, Dietterle always removes the tops of the plants when he sets them out. "Delay in doing this," he tells you, "may cause infection in the new canes and also weaken the plant."

There are exceptions to this rule and several seasons when he either received plants that were dried out or heated during shipping or when conditions made it necessary for him to plant in very late spring, he did not entirely remove the tops. With the existence of any of these conditions, he found a higher percentage of the plants lived if he followed this procedure. When he found it necessary to leave the tops on, Dietterle sprayed to protect the new shoots against anthracnose and was careful to remove flowers or berries as soon as they appeared.

Once the raspberries are planted, your work really begins! One of the most important ways to avoid unnecessary work later is to begin cultivating and hand-hoeing shortly after planting and to continue with it at frequent intervals until September.

During the first year it is beneficial to plant a cover crop. This helps to harden off the young canes and also provides organic matter which can be worked into the soil the following season. Dietterle does this when he feels the plants need an extra lift. In subsequent years, cultivation should begin when growth starts and should be continued until the berries are picked.

AS TO the methods of cultivation, that naturally depends upon where the berries are planted. If they have been placed in a garden, then hand-hoeing may be necessary throughout. But whenever the berries are planted at the normal distance apart, you may cultivate the plants in between the rows with a power or horse-drawn cultivator. "But try as I will," laughs Dietterle, "I've never been able to match the claims of those who say they can keep them without weeds without hand-hoeing to go with it."

He further warns that the hobbyist must be careful when cultivating that the cultivator shovels do not go deep enough to injure the roots of the young plants. He should be certain they don't go deeper than three inches when they are close to the plant areas.

The proper marketing of your raspberries will make the difference between success or failure and will go a long way toward making you enthusiastic about your hobby.

First of all, careful picking must be stressed over and over again and especially if you must employ pickers. Exact instructions should be given to all pickers before they enter the field and their boxes should be watched to see if they are observing the rules.

A cluster of four or five berries cannot be grasped from the stem at one time without some slight damage to the fruit. They must be pulled off individually and not over four berries should be retained in the hand at one time, since any squeezing or pressure on the berries makes them unattractive. And when berries so damaged are put into the boxes, then they quickly mold and cause others coming in contact with them to do likewise.

No berry should be picked unless it is entirely ripe. It is usually necessary to pick them every other day in order to prevent any of the berries from becoming overripe. Picking them individually is an asset here, too, for it is mostly when they are picked in larger numbers that the unripe or overripe berry gets into the box.

It is well to remember that the boxes have the nicest appearance when the shiny top of the berry is upward and when they are full. "Before I raised raspberries," recalls Dietterle, "it used to provoke me when I was sold boxes of berries that weren't entirely full. So I decided immediately to follow the golden rule. People soon notice and the demand for your berries will be greater than the supply."

Pickers must also be cautioned that a box of raspberries means just that and should not include leaves, which again usually are in boxes which have been hastily picked.

DIETTERLE SELLS most of his berries right at his place. If you live along a fairly well-traveled highway, you can do likewise. Otherwise, you may have to sell some of your berries through local markets, stores or institutions.

To capitalize fully on those who travel past your home, it is necessary to provide good signs that will help to make them stop. The signs must be legible and attractive and read something like this: "Raspberries for Sale—200 feet ahead." Use contrasting colors on the sign and large easy-to-read letters, so that your message can be read quickly from a distance. This is a must if you expect cars driving 35 to 50 miles an hour to stop.

Although a stand for displaying your berries is an asset, Dietterle has always found a small table adequate. "Somehow," he says, "people always notice raspberries."

He only places about a half-dozen boxes on the table at one time, especially if the sun is quite hot. The rest he keeps in a crate in a nearby shed or cellar. If at any time it is necessary to keep the berries overnight, he places them on the ground in his cellar or in the refrigerator. Whenever possible it is advisable to sell the berries the day they are picked.

Raspberries are a highly perishable product, and you want to keep this in mind when transporting the berries. Should you take them any distance, be certain they are placed in a crate.

PRICE IS naturally going to be a primary concern of the hobbyist and ever since Dietterle has been raising them, he says the price has been good, sometimes excellent. The first berries bring the best price. These should be picked promptly for it is not unusual for the price to drop 5 cents overnight, since as soon as more berries are available, the price goes downward and levels off at a certain figure.

On an average the black raspberries begin to sell at 50 cents a box and during the period of greatest production go down to 30 cents. The red and purple berries are usually 10 cents higher per box at any time during the season. The only way to be sure you are charging the right price is to check with area growers and fruit stores. Their prices will naturally vary but you are going to make a good profit and keep your reputation if you charge the medium price.

The number of boxes you will get per season depends on many factors, but Dietterle has found you can depend upon getting 1,000 boxes from a half acre of berries. Last year was the only season in fifteen years that he was somewhat disappointed. It was too dry as the berries began to ripen and many of them were inferior in size and the yield was sharply reduced.

A dependable person to answer the phone and keep a record of the orders is an invaluable asset. Have a paper and pencil ready and always write down the customer's name, the number of boxes he wants, and when he wants them. Reliability in all of these respects goes a long way in building your reputation.

If you follow the instructions for handling the berries, price, and full measurements you will seldom have any trouble selling the raspberries. Occasional slack periods may come. When they do, let the person who takes the orders get on the phone and call some of your previous customers. You can encourage repeat business by advertising in local papers, and in emergencies you can find ready markets at hospitals, colleges and fruit stores. The latter are the least desirable since they naturally want a profit for themselves.

AS THE harvest season closes, the old canes which have just fruited should be removed, since they are of no further value for fruit production. These old canes should be cut off as close to the ground as is convenient, removed from the patch and burned.

In late winter or very early spring before growth has started but after severe winter weather is past, the winter-killed canes should be removed. One must be careful about the number of canes left in a hill. The usual number that is left in good plantings is from four to six canes per hill. Up to nine canes per hill is not excessive, provided all are a half-inch in diameter or larger at the base.

At this time a close watch must be kept on the red raspberry bushes because some of their canes originate in a different way than the black and purple varieties. In all three kinds, canes arise from buds near the surface of the ground on the canes of the previous season. However, the red raspberry also gets canes as suckers from various points on the root system and these must be carefully watched or the identity of the hills and rows can be quickly lost. Dietterle always is certain to cut back all the canes he does leave standing by one-fourth.

With all types of raspberries the hobbyist should remove the weak spindling canes and any canes which lean over so badly as to be unable to support a relatively heavy crop through the fruiting season. Common sense must be exercised when you are pruning. Where an excessive amount of fruiting wood is left, the size and quality of the berries will be reduced and the size of the new canes for the next year will be decreased. On the other hand, unduly severe pruning reduces the total yield out of proportion to the increase in the size of the fruit obtained.

IN LATE May and June, as the young black and purple raspberries reach a height of approximately twenty-four inches, Dietterle removes about two or three inches of the tip by cutting or pinching them off. This "topping" will cause the cane to send out several side branches, which in turn are headed back during the following winter. In this manner a low stocky plant with large fruiting surface is developed. These canes can carry a relatively heavy load of fruit without the support of stakes or a trellis.

When Dietterle first started the hobby, he used a trellis to support the canes of the berries. Today he feels that its advantages are not sufficient to warrant the labor involved in its erection and maintenance. He found that the most satisfactory trellis is a single smooth wire set directly over the row about eighteen inches high and supported by posts about twenty to thirty feet apart.

The hobbyist can grow many of his own plants once he gets started. About August or September, Dietterle goes through the black and purple raspberries. At this time the branches are curved downward and many of them have already taken root in the ground of their own accord. When Dietterle notices a branch where the tip has become somewhat thickened and has very small leaves for a distance of about three to six inches back from the end, he buries the tip.

The tip-laying consists of setting the tip of the plant straight down into the ground four to six inches deep and firming the soil around it. Dietterle does this by digging a hole with a hoe and placing the tip in it pointed straight down.

The red raspberry plants are procured from the suckers previously referred to in this article. Should the hobbyist desire, he can sell some plants once he has a good supply of old plants to produce them.

After experimenting with many types of berries, Dietterle now raises the Latham variety in the red raspberry, the Sodus in the purple raspberry, and three types of black raspberry: Improved Cumberland, Cumberland, and New Morrison.

FOR SEVERAL years Dietterle did not spray the raspberries. However, hearing that diseases were becoming more prevalent among raspberries, he decided to begin and has been adequately rewarded by having no difficulty at any time.

Before any growth is evident, he sprays with a solution requiring ten gallons of lime sulphur for every 100 gallons of spray and again when the new canes are from six to twelve inches high he sprays, using 1½ gallons of lime sulphur for every 100 gallons. As the first blossom buds show, two pounds of fifty per cent DDT wettable powder should be used to make the same amount of spray and just before the blossoms open this same solution should be applied again. After the berries have been picked, Dietterle sprays once more with this solution.

The rewards of raspberry raising are as different as the people who pursue the hobby. Some may like to raise the young plants and sell them and some may receive the most pleasure from their profits. Others may take a scientific interest in trying to produce better and larger berries. To some, the biggest enjoyment comes from seeing their family frequently enjoy the frozen or fresh fruit ripened on their own vines. When the berry season reaches its peak, the hobbyist cannot help feeling a real triumph as he looks over the thousands of shiny black caps, the velvety purple, or lush red berries.

"I like raising raspberries because it's creative," says Dietterle. "I'm as happy as a millionaire could ever be when I'm out there working with the berries."